Retinol: How it works & what you should know

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Hardly any ingredient is discussed as frequently in skincare as retinol – whether as a retinol serum, in a retinol cream or as a concentrate. Vitamin A is considered one of the most thoroughly researched anti-ageing ingredients of all. But what is really behind it? How does retinol work, who is it suitable for – and what should you bear in mind when using it? This article gives you a well-founded overview.

The most important facts about retinol at a glance

What it is: A form of Vitamin A – one of the most thoroughly researched ingredients in anti-ageing skincare.
How it acts on the skin: Retinol can support cell renewal, refine the complexion and help the skin appear firmer over time.
When to apply: In the evening, after cleansing, before your moisturiser.
How to start: Start slowly: 1–2 applications per week, gradually increasing the frequency.
What to expect: A visibly fresher complexion often shows after a few weeks – more noticeable changes after 3–6 months of regular use.

You can find all products with Retinyl Palmitate in our Retinol range.

What is retinol?

Retinol is the most well-known form of Vitamin A used in cosmetics for the skin. It belongs to the group of retinoids – fat-soluble compounds that are converted in the skin into the biologically active form retinoic acid. It is precisely this conversion that makes retinol so interesting: it directly influences cell metabolism and can support the skin in renewing itself more quickly.

Retinol should not be confused with prescription-only retinoic acid (tretinoin). Cosmetic retinol is milder than prescription retinoic acid because it is first converted into its active form in the skin over several steps. This process slows down the release and makes retinol significantly more tolerable for regular use.

Retinol effects: what happens in the skin?

The retinol effects on the skin are wide-ranging and well-documented. These are the most important properties:

Supports cell renewal: Retinol is designed to accompany skin cell division and help shed dead skin cells more quickly. The result: the skin can appear clearer, fresher and more even.
Supports collagen formation: As we age, the skin's own collagen synthesis slows down. Retinol can accompany this process – fine lines appear visibly reduced and the skin looks firmer.
Refines the complexion: Thanks to supported cell turnover, pores can appear finer, the skin smoother and the overall skin texture more even.
Reduces pigmentation irregularities: Retinol can influence melanin production and thus visibly improve age spots and uneven skin tone – particularly over a longer period of use.
Regulates sebum production: For blemish-prone or acne-prone skin, retinol is also interesting as it can help normalise sebaceous gland activity.

Vitamin A for the skin: not all forms are equal

When we talk about Vitamin A for the skin, we mean different compounds – with varying potency and tolerability:

Retinol – the most well-known cosmetic form, well-researched and found in many retinol creams and serums
Retinyl Palmitate – a milder precursor that is particularly suitable for sensitive skin
Retinaldehyde (Retinal) – one step stronger than retinol, but still available without a prescription
Tretinoin (retinoic acid) – the strongest form, available on prescription only

For daily retinol skincare at home, cosmetic forms such as retinol or Retinyl Palmitate are the sensible choice. They are well suited to long-term use and are well-tolerated.

CHRIS FARRELL products with retinol at a glance

CHRIS FARRELL exclusively uses Retinyl Palmitate – the milder precursor of retinol, particularly suitable for sensitive skin. Depending on skin type and needs, there are matching formulas:

For skin that needs balance and regeneration: The Revitam A combines Retinyl Palmitate with the soothing properties of allantoin. It is ideal as a daily base care, particularly when the skin is out of balance or reacting sensitively to new ingredients. 👉 To Revitam A
For mature skin with an intensive care need: The Intens Vitamin Cream provides demanding skin with intensive Vitamin A in the form of Retinyl Palmitate and additional care ingredients. A rich retinol cream for anyone who wants to give their complexion more radiance and density – without compromising on tolerability. 👉 To Intens Vitamin Cream
For blemish-prone or combination skin: The Skin Balancer combines Retinyl Palmitate with a lightweight emulsion that supports the skin's microbiome and calms the complexion – without feeling greasy. Ideal for skin that needs both clarifying and nourishing support. 👉 To Skin Balancer

You can find all products with Retinyl Palmitate in our Retinol range.

Who is retinol suitable for?

Retinol is generally suitable for many skin types and age groups, but not equally advisable for every situation.

Recommended for:

First signs of skin ageing (fine lines, loss of elasticity)
Uneven skin tone or pigmentation spots
Blemish-prone or acne-prone skin
Dull, lacklustre skin without radiance

Use with caution if you have:

Very sensitive or redness-prone skin (e.g. with couperose or rosacea)
Dry, flaky skin without accompanying moisture care
Pregnancy and breastfeeding – retinol should be avoided entirely during this time

Retinol application: how often, when and how to use Vitamin A correctly

The most common mistakes with retinol application come from doing too much, too soon. Here is how to do it right:

Apply in the evening: Retinol is broken down by UV light and can increase the skin's sensitivity to light. So the rule is: retinol belongs in your evening routine.
When to apply retinol? After cleansing and any serum – but before your final moisturiser. The rule of thumb: lightest to heaviest.
Start slowly: Begin with 1–2 applications per week. Once the skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the frequency. Many find that 3–4 applications per week works well long-term.
Less is more: A pea-sized amount is enough for the entire face. More does not mean better results – it only increases the risk of irritation.
Don't forget moisture: Retinol can make the skin drier during the adjustment phase. A good retinol cream or moisturiser is therefore essential – morning and evening.

Retinol eye cream – a special topic

The skin around the eyes is particularly thin and sensitive. A specialised retinol eye cream sounds like an obvious choice – but the eye area above all needs care that is specifically tailored to its particular requirements: moisturising, soothing, light enough not to weigh the skin down. CHRIS FARRELL offers a dedicated eye care collection that covers a range of different needs – from intensive moisture care to oil-free gels and highly effective anti-ageing concentrates with peptides and silk tree extract. 👉 To the CHRIS FARRELL eye care collection

Retinol before and after: what are realistic expectations?

Retinol does not reveal its properties overnight. Those who have realistic expectations will be rewarded in the long run:

After 4–6 weeks: The skin generally appears fresher and the complexion more even
After 3 months: Fine lines may appear reduced, the texture smoother
After 6 months and beyond: Visible improvement in pigmentation spots is common; a noticeable firming effect can develop

The retinol before-and-after journey is very individual. In the early stages – particularly in the first two to four weeks – the skin can sometimes react with mild irritation, dryness or slight flaking. This is not a sign that the product is wrong for you, but that your skin is adjusting. With good accompanying care and a gradual introduction, this settles quickly for most people.

Combining retinol: what works, what doesn't

Retinol does not get along with everything. Here is what to watch out for:

Good combinations:

Hyaluronic acid – soothes, provides moisture and counterbalances the drying effect of retinol
Ceramides and lipids – strengthen the skin barrier
Niacinamide – can help reduce redness and refine the complexion

Use with caution:

AHA/BHA acids (e.g. glycolic acid, salicylic acid) – combined use can cause strong irritation
Vitamin C – can become unstable in direct combination; better to use Vitamin C in the morning and retinol in the evening
Benzoyl peroxide – inactivates retinol and should not be used at the same time

Retinol serum or retinol cream: which is right for me?

There is no one-size-fits-all answer – it depends on your skin type and your needs.

A retinol serum generally has a lighter texture and absorbs quickly. It works well for normal to combination skin and can easily be combined with a moisturiser. Those looking for the best retinol serum should pay close attention to the tolerability of the formula. A mild retinol serum with Retinyl Palmitate is often the gentler entry point compared to high-concentration retinol products.

A retinol cream is usually richer and works well for dry or mature skin that needs intensive care alongside Vitamin A. The texture is simultaneously nourishing and forms a protective layer on the skin. For beginners, a retinol cream such as our Revitam A is often the gentler starting point.

Using retinol – with care and consistency

Retinol is one of the most thoroughly researched ingredients in skincare. It can support cell renewal, reduce fine lines, refine the complexion and improve the skin long-term – when used correctly. The most important thing: give your skin time to adjust. Start with 1–2 applications per week, support it with good accompanying care and protect your skin during the day with sun protection. With this approach, retinol can become one of the most rewarding investments in your long-term skincare routine.

Not sure which retinol skincare is right for you? The personal CHRIS FARRELL skin analysis helps you determine your individual skin condition and find the right products for your routine. → To the skin analysis

What is the difference between retinol and retinyl palmitate?

Both are forms of vitamin A, but retinyl palmitate is the milder precursor. It is gradually converted within the skin, making it gentler and better tolerated – ideal for sensitive skin or long-term use.

At what age should you start using retinol?

There's no fixed minimum age. As a general guideline: once the first signs of skin ageing become visible – often from the mid-20s to early 30s – retinol can be a helpful addition. More important than age is choosing the right form and concentration.

How often should you apply retinol?

Start with 1–2 times per week. Once your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase to 3–4 times per week.

Can you use retinol every day?

It depends on your skin type and the formulation. Milder forms likeretinyl palmitateare generally well-tolerated and can be used daily once your skin has adjusted.

Can you use retinol in summer?

Yes – but only with consistent sun protection in the morning. Retinol increases the skin's sensitivity to light and should therefore only be applied in the evening.

Retinol or hyaluronic acid – which is better?

It's not an either/or question. Retinol activates cell metabolism and refines the complexion. Hyaluronic acid provides moisture and helps counterbalance any dryness. The two complement each other perfectly.

Is retinol safe to use during pregnancy?

No. During pregnancy and breastfeeding, all forms of vitamin A in skincare – including retinol and retinyl palmitate – should be avoided. If in doubt, always seek medical advice.

When will you see the first results?

First improvements are often visible after 4–6 weeks. More significant effects such as reduced fine lines or a more even complexion can become apparent after 3–6 months. Retinol is a long-term investment – patience pays off.

How often should I use retinol per week?

Start with 1–2 times per week. Once well-tolerated, the frequency can gradually be increased to 3–4 times per week. Milder forms such as Retinyl Palmitate can, once the skin has adjusted, be used daily.

Should retinol be applied in the morning or evening?

Always in the evening. Retinol is broken down by UV radiation and can increase the skin's sensitivity to light. The evening routine is therefore the only sensible time to apply it – and sunscreen in the morning is a must.

What is the best retinol serum for beginners?

For retinol beginners, formulas with Retinyl Palmitate are particularly well-suited – they are milder than pure retinol and generally require no adjustment period. Thebest retinol serumfor starting out is the one that does not irritate the skin and is well-tolerated in the long run.

Author: Aileen Pfeffer

Head of Training at Chris Farrell Cosmetics

Aileen Pfeffer has been a specialist in professional skincare for over seven years. When our partner salons receive training, she’s the one who shares her expertise.

It’s precisely this practical knowledge that’s reflected in our articles, so you can better understand your skin and find the skincare routine that’s truly right for you.

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